ENGINEERED FOR EVERYONE
TROUBLESHOOTING
The Music Sounds Thin and I’m Not Impressed.
Please check that all of the tubes are in the correct position. Each tube is marked on the back with the correct socket it. The Signal tubes are in pairs per side. Each balanced channel gets its own set of two 12AX7 tubes which are different brands. The balanced circuit is V5 - V6 and V7 - V8 and must be installed as labeled, in the proper order, backwards will create thin sound. They have been matched and chosen to produce the best possible balance of detail and sound for your specific amplifier. If installed in the wrong sockets the sound will be poor. Please call us if you are unsure.
Please double check the bias voltage and make sure you are running the correct voltage for the power tubes installed. Correct Tube Bias Settings are HERE.
Oh No, I rocked my tubes when installing or removing them and something is not right.
Step one, relax it’s not a big deal to fix, our gear is built tough.
The issue is a bad connection at the gold female contacts of the tube socket. Rocking the tubes can spread these and cause bad contact with the tube pins. Please power off and unplug the unit and wait 30 minutes for the tubes to cool and make sure there is no charge before inspecting the contacts, then carefully remove the tubes one at a time and inspect the connection between the tube pins and socket to make sure they are tight. If adjustment is necessary to the gold female contacts in the tube socket the pin holes can be carefully moved closer together to make proper contact with the tube pins. You can press in the center of the contacts with a small pick or jewelers screwdriver to make them tighter. Please re-bias the tubes once this operation is complete.
See this guide for a visual of how to fix the pins. FIXING TUBE SOCKET PINS
AMPLIFIER and GENERAL ISSUES
The FX10H Gets Hot/Warm.
This happens by design. The FX10H is a small package Class A tube amplifier. The entire chassis acts as a heatsink. The suit is designed to run like this.
Volume Works Intermittently or Not at All With the Remote Contol.
Please pull the volume knob away from the faceplate. The knob can be pushed in too far and touch the glass faceplate which causes too much friction for the potentiometer motor to overcome. This can happen during shipping or when moving the gear.
Turned On the Switch on the Back but the Tubes are Off.
Please touch the logo in the center of the front faceplate.
No Sound Coming from One or Both of Your Speakers.
Check all connections for both speaker wire and component cables.
Make sure the proper input is selected.
Double-check that the source is working correctly.
Occasional Ticking, Creaking, or Other Mechanical Sounds.
This is normal with tubes, it is the natural expansion and contraction of the plates as they heat and cool.
Popping, Crackling, or Static in an Audio Channel.
The issue could be a bad connection at the gold female contacts of the tube socket. Tube rolling can spread these and cause bad contact with the tube pins. New Old Stock(N.O.S.) tubes in particular can have various pin sizes even within the same family there is no standard thickness. Please power off and unplug the unit and wait 30 minutes for the tubes to cool and make sure there is no charge before inspecting the contacts, then carefully remove the tubes one at a time and inspect the connection between the tube pins and socket to make sure they are tight. If adjustment is necessary to the gold female contacts in the tube socket the pin holes can be carefully moved closer together to make proper contact with the tube pins. You can press in the center of the contacts with a small pick or jewelers screwdriver to make them tighter. FIXING TUBE SOCKET PINS
Please re-bias the tubes once this operation is complete.
Power Tube Showing Zero in Exact Biasing Meter.
Double-check that the Exact Bias selector switch is clicked into the correct position.
Make sure you have turned it clockwise enough time, initial biasing can take a lot of turns before the voltage increases.
Please power off and unplug the unit and wait 30 minutes for the tubes to cool and make sure there is no charge before inspecting the contacts, then carefully remove the tubes one at a time and inspect the connection between the tube pins and socket to make sure they are tight. If not carefully compress the gold socket pin holes together to make proper contact with the tube pins. Please re-bias the tubes once this operation is complete. See this guide: FIXING TUBE SOCKET PINS
Power Tube Fluctuations in Exact Biasing Meter.
IMPORTANT: Never check tube voltages while music or a signal is playing. This will cause the bias needle to swing with the changing voltage from the signal and give you inaccurate readings.
A small amount of movement (around 1–4 mA) is totally normal and can simply be caused by changes in your household electrical load. You can adjust the bias up or down as long as it stays reasonably steady and you can lock it in at a stable voltage.
If one tube’s reading jumps around a lot or won’t settle (more than about 4 mA) when no signal is playing, it’s usually a sign that the tube is weak or starting to fail. Swapping it for an exact replacement should take care of it.
If all four tubes seem unstable, something else in your setup may be introducing noise or interference. Try disconnecting everything from the amp, plug it into its own outlet or circuit, and turn off other devices sharing that line.
If the bias stays steady after that, your amp is perfectly fine—it’s just picking up something external. If it still won’t stabilize, please reach out and we’ll be happy to help you sort it out.
The Headphone Output is Missing Right or Left Channel.
Check the headphone jack connection, make sure it is pushed all the way in.
Make sure there is no debris in the headphone jack on the amplifier.
Make sure proper input is selected.
Double-check that the source is working correctly.
The amplifier is Off and Black Ice Logo is Not Illuminated.
Possible bad tube.
There was a power surge.
Low Sound in Right or Left Channel.
Check for a bad tube - Switch tubes between channels and see if the issue changes to the other channel.
Please power off and unplug the unit and wait 15 minutes then inspect the connection between the tube pins and socket to make sure they are tight. If not carefully move the socket pin holes closer together to make proper contact with the tube pins.
Double-check the component cables.
Make sure proper input is selected.
Double-check that the source is working correctly.
Follow the FINDING A BAD TUBE GUIDE to eliminate the possibility of a bad signal or power tube. If you do not find a bad tube move on to the FIXING TUBE SOCKET PINS guide and check the connections.
Contact support if none of the above work.
A Fuse is Blown.
If fuse glass is Clear and the filament is broken - it is likely a bad tube or surge or voltage spike in the electric circuit the unit is connected to.
If fuse glass is Smokey or Black in color - it is likely a very bad tube or a bad capacitor.
If fuse glass Silver and filament has been liquified it is likely a bad diode/bridge rectifier, bad power transformer, or a bad output transformer.
DAC and WiFi ISSUES
DAC is Not Playing Music.
Check all connections both speaker wire and component cables.
Make sure proper input is selected.
Double Check software and format settings on the device or computer.
Inspect tubes to make sure they are good.
Listen for the mute relay to click, If the mute relay does not click, Check USB, Coaxial, Toslink, and WiFi connection.
DAC is Not Playing Music and I Hear a Clicking.
The clicking sound is the mute relay engaging and disengaging due to the source sending a digital signal not compatible with the DAC chip. The FX DAC DSD Wifi does not upsample or downsample and this causes the clicking noise. We believe the best way for a DAC to sound right during playback requires the DAC not to upsample or downsample.
The WiFi Module is Not Working.
IMPORTANT FOR APPLE USERS: Due to Apple Security updates. When using your DAC with WiFi please make sure to disconnect the DAC and select your phone by check marking the iPhone/iPad under Airplay. I you do not do this the DAC will no longer show up under Airplay or it will show up but result in no sound. The fix it to disconnect the DAC from Airplay and then turn the DAC off and wait 1 min before powering on and reconnecting.
Check Router connection
Check Airplay connection
Turn DAC off and wait 3 min before turning it back on to clear errors.
Check the DAC input selector to make sure it is on WiFi.
Check digital file format and software.
Check all connections both speaker wire and component cables.
Make sure proper input is selected.
Double-check that the source is working correctly.
Make sure your router is separating the 2.4g and 5g bands as separate networks. Dynamic switching can cause your devices to be on a different band than the DAC.
Please reset the WiFi module and follow the WiFi connection guide step by step.
No Sound from WiFi DAC with the Bubble UPnP APP on Android Devices.
Please go to the bottom right in the Bubble UPnP app home screen and press More < Settings < Local Renderer and make sure Enable is checked.
If you are uncomfortable or have any questions, Please reach out by email to support@blackiceaudio.com or call us at (301) 953-2014 and we will be happy to help or arrange service if necessary.
Vacuum Tube Troubleshooting
Hearing a Problem
It isn’t always easy to tell that there’s a problem with your tubes, look and listen out for these warning signs.
Disclaimer & safety warning - Tube amps operate at very high voltages and should not be opened and modified by an unqualified person. The most you should do, even to an unplugged amp, is change the tubes. If you have any doubts about anything consult an amp tech. This information should serve as general advice only and act to narrow down potential issues. Amplifies are complex so what you think is an obvious solution may not be the case.
Keep Your Old Stock Tubes
Many of the problems listed below can be confirmed simply by placing an old set of tubes you know work into your amp. If you have one of the problems below, and the stock tube solves it, then you’ll likely need a new set. It may even be a good idea to keep tubes that don’t sound great, but you know still work.
For the more serious problems below (amp not turning on) they can still be a useful tool in helping your diagnosis. Also, if it’s a fault with an amp, and your stock / old tubes blow straight away, you’ll not lose a new set.
Your Amp Just Doesn’t Sound Amazing
This is one of the least serious, and perfectly normal signs. Your amp just doesn’t sound as good as it once did. It no longer has that amazing tone you’ve come to expect. If your tubes have had a good run (several years they usually last depending on use) then they may just be past their best and need replacing.
There may be nothing wrong with them from a technical point of view, but if it drops below what you think is an acceptable level, then a change is needed. The old tubes are good to keep as a test pair for diagnosing potential future problems.
Your Amp Sounds Bad
If you’re hearing a big increase in noise, cracking or distortion which comes on all of a sudden, one (or more) of your tubes may be near the end of its life. If your tubes have been in for a while it may be time to change them. Generally, power tubes wear out faster than preamp tubes – so look at them first. It’s a good idea to change all tubes of the same type at the same time if they're of a similar age, but there isn’t always a need to change ALL tubes in the amp.
If you want to be a nerd about it, try to keep a note of the approximate age of a tube. This will help you narrow down the problem tube.
A Drop in Volume
In a way, this is similar to the above. Your amp may be quieter than it once was. When a tube fails the amp can still work, but it’ll only be running off 3 tubes, for example, not 4. So it’s lacking the extra amplification that the tube would have been providing. Look below for visual signs that a tube has failed.
There is Power But No Sound
This one may be straightforward. Your power switch lights up but there’s no sound. This will mean there’s either a problem with your amp or your tubes. Hopefully, it’s your tubes as it’s more easily fixed. If you heard a popping noise, saw a flash, or your tubes are a few years old, then there’s a good chance that it’s your tubes. The problem is usually a connection breaking somewhere in the tube. It won’t necessarily be a visible problem because tubes can be very sensitive.
Read below for identifying the bad tube or try one of your old stock tubes in each position until you find the culprit.
Intermittent Volume and Power
This is one of the worst and most frustrating problems because it’s so hard to diagnose and solve. Your amp could be working fine but then have a sudden drop in volume, or even turn off completely. You may think it’s dead only for it to start working again. This may be the first sign of a tube slowly giving up. However, it could also be a sign of something else. Try testing with an old stock tube and see if that solves the problem.
Your Amp Won’t Power On
The panic moment – your amp won’t turn on and you’ve made sure it’s plugged in. The first thing you should do is check the fuse. These exist for safety reasons and to protect your amp. If too much current flows through the device the wire in the fuse melts and breaks the circuit. Sometimes this fuse blowing is the fault of a tube – usually a shorted or failed rectifier/power tube. The fuse blowing is a good thing – it’s protecting your amp from extreme voltages!
As a rule, preamp tubes don’t cause your fuse to blow, they’re too low voltage. So if there’s a problem it’ll be your power or rectifier tubes. Also, it’s unlikely that both tubes will have blown, it’ll usually just be one. The odds of 1+ tubes blowing at the same time are incredibly low verging on impossible. If they have both blown then it could indicate a problem with your amp. It may be an idea to get an amp tech to look at your amp.
If you find that it is just one tube, then replacing the fuse and blown tube could sort your problem easily.
Seeing a Problem
So you think a tube may be bad, but how do you know for sure? And which tube is it? You don’t always want to replace a full set if it isn’t nessecary.
Is the Tube Glowing?
This is a good way to tell your tube is broken – it isn’t glowing. After reading how a tube works above, it becomes obvious why. If it’s not glowing, then it’s not producing heat to complete its role in the functioning of a vacuum tube. The signal won’t be being passed. However, you can’t guarantee that a tube has broken if it’s not glowing, it may not be receiving a current (the amps fault). But if you replace it with another tube, and it starts to glow, you can be pretty certain it was the tube.
If it still doesn’t glow with a tube you know is ok, then it may be amp tech time.
Is the Getter White?
This one is an easy diagnosis. The getter is the silver coating at the top of the tube which absorbs gasses so it doesn’t interfere with the functioning of the tube. If the getter is white, then the tube isn’t operating in a vacuum because air has leaked in and caused the color change.
This tube is now useless and needs replacing.
Red Plating
Red plating is when the plate (in addition to the filament) glows red and looks kind of sinister. This means too much power is flowing through the tube and is a bad sign. Very soon the tube will die. Sometimes the amp can function ok while red plating but it’s not recommended to use it.
Red plating is the result of a bad bias adjustment or a bad tube. If you notice this after a bias adjustment, or on more than one tube, then take it (back) to the amp tech. It’s probably the amp. Certain tube brands just deal better than others with a bad bias adjustment, so may not red plate.
But this isn’t always a good thing – the bias may cause problems later that you won’t be able to diagnose due to the lack of red plating. Tubes that can red plate easily aren’t always a mark of bad quality either, they’re only red plating because they’re not being used as intended.
If it’s just one tube that is red plating, out of the blue, then it’s likely to be a faulty tube – replacing the tube may fix the problem.
Tube Microphonics
Microphonic tubes are annoying because they add noise to your sound from small vibrations which are created in your amplifier. Sometimes the sound from the amp vibrates them enough to hear the microphonics.
It’s pretty easy to test for a microphonic tube. All you need to do is take a pen and gently tap the tube while in use. You’ll hear a clear noise coming through your amp if it’s microphonic. Sometimes tubes can arrive microphonic (usually damaged through transportation). Or they can develop the fault over time. You’ll usually want to replace the faulty tube.
What if the Amp Still Doesn’t Work?
Tubes aren’t always the problem if your amp dies. It could be something else. In rare cases, it’s possible that a bad tube has damaged something in your amp. So, a part or component will need to be replaced. Although, most of the time it will be a biasing issue and the fuse should stop damage in most cases. Call us at (301) 953-2014 and we can help.
Tube amps are pretty complex and it could be any number of things for an experienced amp tech to diagnose.